After rubbing sandpaper and put on very thin coat of varnish and
turpentine (about equal parts). This soaks into the filling, hardening
it and making a close, smooth, elastic surface, leaving no brush marks
and being more durable than a _quick_-drying lead. This can be rubbed
with fine sandpaper or hair to take off gloss, and colored the next
morning, but it is better to remain 24 hours before coloring.
Upon this surface an "all japan color" would, before night, resemble a
map of the war in Egypt, but by adding varnish and a very little raw oil
to the "japan color," making it of the same nature as the under surface,
will prevent cracking.
If I sandpaper in the morning, I put on first-coat color before noon.
Second ditto afternoon, and varnish with rubbing varnish that night; rub
down, stripe and letter next day, though I consider it better to stripe
and letter on the color, and varnish with "wearing body varnish."
The tank is then ready for mounting. When mounted I paint trucks and
woodwork, two coats lead, color, "color and varnish," and finish the
whole with "wearing body varnish." Time, from 14 to 16 days.
On cabs I use the same priming as on tanks, let stand five days, putty
nail holes and "plaster putty" hard wood, and give two coats lead, mixed
as follows: 100 pounds keg lead, 19 pounds Reno's umber, 31/2 quarts
japan, 11/2 quarts varnish, 6 quarts turpentine.
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